subtitle/-xZglYQSJ3Q.srt

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<font color="white" size=".72c">My training is in set design.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">I went to the Yale Drama School in Set Design to study with Ming Cho Lee.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">I've actually only take one course in costume design.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">The rest has been monkey see monkey do.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">Now, this is the fun part.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">I'm not exactly sure when the switch happened from scenery to costumes</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">But I think it happened as simply as I couldn't get any jobs doing scenery.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">when I moved to New York and everyone
needed some clothes.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">So I'll call William he has something in
a bag somewhere.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">So that's how it began.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">Nine was my first big musical, second
musical on Broadway.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">It was like right out of the gate and I
won this Tony Award.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">Thinking back on it, I don't know how
that happened. But it did change my life.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">And made me feel like, oh I guess, I guess I'm doing this.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">I'm always afraid of not being able to come up with an idea. And to counteract that fear of not</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">being able to think of something.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">It's why I've developed this amazing,
sort of blitz green gathering of images.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">Because if you live in a cocoon, like
this seller basement of mine,</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">osmosis it just sort of bombards you with
the research, with the feeling, with the energy.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">I think that helps ward off
that fear of designers block and so far</font>

21
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<font color="white" size=".72c">so good the designers block is kept at
bay at the moment.</font>

22
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<font color="white" size=".72c">But it doesn't mean I don't have nightmares about it.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">Absolutely.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">You know when I first started, I took no
prisoners. In fact my agent used to get</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">these little packages.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">It had dimes and a Valium in it.</font>

27
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<font color="white" size=".72c">And it was if you're having a panic attack, call me and take a Valium.</font>

28
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<font color="white" size=".72c">This lasted through the years, up through
25 cents. So it became quarters and two Valium.</font>

29
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<font color="white" size=".72c">I never took the Valium because I can't even take aspirin and and not be affected.</font>

30
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<font color="white" size=".72c">But, the mere confidence of having the
little packages with two quarters and two Valiums</font>

31
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<font color="white" size=".72c">in it just was comforting to me.  But it also acknowledged I was out of control.</font>

32
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<font color="white" size=".72c">I didn't have an overview. I thought
everything was life or death.</font>

33
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<font color="white" size=".72c">And I'm going to tell you right now that was the best way to begin. Kids starting out it</font>

34
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<font color="white" size=".72c">has to be life or death.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">I never say no to a project. I would say
yes and then I figure out how to make it happen.</font>

36
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<font color="white" size=".72c">Because one door opens another and theaters all about relationships.</font>

37
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<font color="white" size=".72c">And I learned that the hard way because when I came into this business,</font>

38
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<font color="white" size=".72c">I had a chip on my shoulder the size of
Manhattan.</font>

39
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<font color="white" size=".72c">Growing up in New York City in the
70s,</font>

40
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<font color="white" size=".72c">you can see it as the best of times and
the worst of time.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">And the city was bankrupt. And I lived in
the South Bronx which is a lower income neighborhood.</font>

42
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<font color="white" size=".72c">But within the craziness of the time,</font>

43
00:05:06,340 --> 00:05:09,159
<font color="white" size=".72c">I was able to find beauty.</font>

44
00:05:09,160 --> 00:05:14,770
<font color="white" size=".72c">I always was interested in what color
people painted their apartments because</font>

45
00:05:14,770 --> 00:05:19,780
<font color="white" size=".72c">in the Bronx, a lot of the buildings were
burnt down or abandoned, you can look into</font>

46
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<font color="white" size=".72c">the windows and you can see the
different colors.</font>

47
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<font color="white" size=".72c">New York in the 70s</font>

48
00:05:26,349 --> 00:05:32,700
<font color="white" size=".72c">that was the birth of hip-hop and it
changed the music we heard, the fashions,</font>

49
00:05:32,700 --> 00:05:36,460
<font color="white" size=".72c">and you can still see it in my aesthetic.</font>

50
00:05:36,460 --> 00:05:42,699
<font color="white" size=".72c">Graffiti, it's pretty much in everything I do,
whether it's text. I love text.</font>

51
00:05:42,700 --> 00:05:48,620
<font color="white" size=".72c">I am prone to use bright vibrant colors. So my upbringing is always apart of it.</font>

52
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<font color="white" size=".72c">I had a friend in Los Angeles who
emailed me to said Project Runway is</font>

53
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<font color="white" size=".72c">looking for designers and I think you
should audition.</font>

54
00:06:13,840 --> 00:06:19,040
<font color="white" size=".72c">But they weren't sure that I had the right fit for the show because I was a costume designer.</font>

55
00:06:19,100 --> 00:06:25,240
<font color="white" size=".72c">Back when I was doing the show, Costume Designers were thought of as a gimmick.</font>

56
00:06:25,249 --> 00:06:29,569
<font color="white" size=".72c">They really didn't see us as Fashion Designers.  So I had to go back again and</font>

57
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<font color="white" size=".72c">really prove to them that I was a
Fashion Designer.</font>

58
00:06:52,260 --> 00:06:57,480
<font color="white" size=".72c">I learned that I have very little
patience for when things don't go my way.</font>

59
00:06:58,300 --> 00:07:03,500
<font color="white" size=".72c">And I think TV just amplified that.  But also I learned that I can put out good work</font>

60
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<font color="white" size=".72c">under extreme stressful situations
and if I follow my instinct,</font>

61
00:07:07,900 --> 00:07:09,720
<font color="white" size=".72c">I could be successful.</font>

62
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<font color="white" size=".72c">A great designer I knew was Charles James. I moved to the Chelsea Hotel.</font>

63
00:07:22,940 --> 00:07:25,480
<font color="white" size=".72c">He lived on the sixth floor. I lived on the
fourth floor.</font>

64
00:07:25,480 --> 00:07:29,200
<font color="white" size=".72c">I would send him notes saying, I'd love
to meet you, this, and of course</font>

65
00:07:29,200 --> 00:07:31,880
<font color="white" size=".72c">he totally ignored all of them because he would get that all the time.</font>

66
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<font color="white" size=".72c">And then, I was making a doll and I was having trouble with the bodice.</font>

67
00:07:36,000 --> 00:07:39,240
<font color="white" size=".72c">And something just occurred to me to write a note.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">Dear Mr. James.  I'm having problems with this dress.</font>

69
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<font color="white" size=".72c">Ten minutes later he came to my
apartment and there was the doll.</font>

70
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<font color="white" size=".72c">And he saw the doll and he advised me. He
thought I was going the right way.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">He said he was, just too bad it was too
small. He would love to see it life-sized.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">that's what he said. I said well
we're starting with the doll. [laughs]</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">Hello. How are you?</font>

74
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<font color="white" size=".72c">Look where I am.</font>

75
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<font color="white" size=".72c">You're here.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">Roof top, yeah.</font>

77
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<font color="white" size=".72c">What I loved about it was the light. When I create I need light.</font>

78
00:08:13,060 --> 00:08:14,980
<font color="white" size=".72c">So you can tell what colors things are.</font>

79
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<font color="white" size=".72c">Exactly. And when I procrastinate, I can look at the stuff.</font>

80
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<font color="white" size=".72c">What do you mean? I feel everything.</font>

81
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<font color="white" size=".72c">Exactly.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">I was in Fashion School. I was I think 15/16 maybe and Nine...</font>

83
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<font color="white" size=".72c">You had just done Nine.  And that famous lace jumpsuit that Anita Morris wore.</font>

84
00:08:35,440 --> 00:08:39,490
<font color="white" size=".72c">And I remember opening the newspaper and seeing that. I was like whoa what is that?</font>

85
00:08:39,490 --> 00:08:46,060
<font color="white" size=".72c">Now I know why I was so attracted to it. It just changed my, at least my idea of what</font>

86
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<font color="white" size=".72c">costume was because that was more of fashion.</font>

87
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<font color="white" size=".72c">They hadn't done anything like that
in theater before and they got so much press.</font>

88
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<font color="white" size=".72c">She was on David Letterman. And I
stayed up late one night just to watch her.</font>

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<font color="white" size=".72c">And I think it was by using that little
ruffle at the ankle and at the cuff.</font>

90
00:09:04,840 --> 00:09:07,840
<font color="white" size=".72c">That's what made it not just a leotard.</font>

91
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<font color="white" size=".72c">It gave it the sensitive side.</font>

92
00:09:11,000 --> 00:09:11,900
<font color="white" size=".72c">Do you know why I added it?</font>

93
00:09:11,900 --> 00:09:12,470
<font color="white" size=".72c">Why did you add it?</font>

94
00:09:12,470 --> 00:09:15,000
<font color="white" size=".72c">No I don't know. I'm fascinated by that story.</font>

95
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<font color="white" size=".72c">Because the ankles were small</font>

96
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<font color="white" size=".72c">yeah and I wanted the curve to stay and not go pointy.  So I gave it out a little</font>

97
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<font color="white" size=".72c">flamenco energy to give it a little Va va va Voom! Then it goes out, you know.</font>

98
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<font color="white" size=".72c">And she decided to go for it.</font>

99
00:09:31,560 --> 00:09:32,880
<font color="white" size=".72c">It changed her career.</font>

100
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<font color="white" size=".72c">It did. It changed all our careers. Oh, my goodness.</font>

101
00:09:36,040 --> 00:09:41,300
<font color="white" size=".72c">Well I didn't realize that this interested you.</font>

102
00:09:41,300 --> 00:09:44,700
<font color="white" size=".72c">That's I think the power of theater.</font>

103
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<font color="white" size=".72c">It transcends generations,</font>

104
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<font color="white" size=".72c">color lines, economic boundaries and your
people are in a dark sharing of story</font>

105
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<font color="white" size=".72c">What's in this room?</font>

106
00:09:56,500 --> 00:09:58,400
<font color="white" size=".72c">Oh this room. Oh you have to come see this.</font>

107
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<font color="white" size=".72c">This is like where the actual work gets done.</font>

108
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<font color="white" size=".72c">I have my brother...</font>

109
00:10:03,620 --> 00:10:05,570
<font color="white" size=".72c">You can tell how tall you are.</font>

110
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<font color="white" size=".72c">I'm telling you this.... Some of my
favorite times with my actor is in the fitting room.</font>

111
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<font color="white" size=".72c">That's when I get into their heads.</font>

112
00:10:12,340 --> 00:10:14,700
<font color="white" size=".72c">And then how does it starts a fitting, say</font>

113
00:10:14,740 --> 00:10:17,060
<font color="white" size=".72c">you start with a what? a mirror</font>

114
00:10:17,060 --> 00:10:19,620
<font color="white" size=".72c">A mirror and underwear.</font>

115
00:10:19,720 --> 00:10:24,760
<font color="white" size=".72c">Yeah mirror and underwear.  
Let's get everything where it needs to be.</font>

116
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<font color="white" size=".72c">Where you feel comfortable and then I
don't ask them do you like something,</font>

117
00:10:29,390 --> 00:10:34,190
<font color="white" size=".72c">I ask my first question to an actor is tell
me about the character.  Who is she?</font>

118
00:10:34,190 --> 00:10:38,560
<font color="white" size=".72c">Where did you go to school? What kind of
music do you listen to?</font>

119
00:10:38,560 --> 00:10:44,240
<font color="white" size=".72c">Are you a high heel girl? Which they all
say yeah no matter what the role is.</font>

120
00:10:44,980 --> 00:10:53,700
<font color="white" size=".72c">What do you do when men want to wear...
What waist, waistline on man period vs. contemporary.</font>

121
00:10:53,920 --> 00:10:58,780
<font color="white" size=".72c">Well, what did you do with Porgy and Bess with waistline?</font>

122
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<font color="white" size=".72c">Well here's the thing and for me
sometimes the little tricky because I</font>

123
00:11:01,740 --> 00:11:06,580
<font color="white" size=".72c">come in with these modern waist, my pants
are lower and my hips and then I'm trying</font>

124
00:11:06,590 --> 00:11:11,240
<font color="white" size=".72c">to teach them or get them to wear their
pants at their natural waist.</font>

125
00:11:11,240 --> 00:11:15,680
<font color="white" size=".72c">The navel. That's totally completely different for the</font>

126
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<font color="white" size=".72c">youth for young people today.  But I just
I just make them do it, and, and then when</font>

127
00:11:20,840 --> 00:11:22,710
<font color="white" size=".72c">they don't want to do it, I just put a pair of
suspenders on.</font>

128
00:11:22,710 --> 00:11:27,060
<font color="white" size=".72c">to make sure... and then I stitch them.</font>

129
00:11:27,060 --> 00:11:29,960
<font color="white" size=".72c">That's the trick.  Cause they'll drop them down.</font>

130
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<font color="white" size=".72c">I realize that men are fussier than women.</font>

131
00:11:33,920 --> 00:11:38,980
<font color="white" size=".72c">Because we don't have a lot of different
things to wear.  We wear a pair of pants everyday,</font>

132
00:11:38,980 --> 00:11:43,800
<font color="white" size=".72c">a shirt or tee shirt or a jacket.  That's what we wear everyday.</font>

133
00:11:43,800 --> 00:11:48,160
<font color="white" size=".72c">So that that suit has to say everything.</font>

134
00:11:48,160 --> 00:11:51,760
<font color="white" size=".72c">Because they don't have five different changes.</font>

135
00:11:51,760 --> 00:11:55,740
<font color="white" size=".72c">Also men throughout history have really been peacock themselves too.</font>

136
00:11:55,840 --> 00:12:03,620
<font color="white" size=".72c">One longs for the 17th century and Louis the 14th because then you can then its peacock alley.</font>

137
00:12:03,620 --> 00:12:08,940
<font color="white" size=".72c">It is a natural thing for men to have
the plumage, all the birds, nature.</font>

138
00:12:08,940 --> 00:12:11,900
<font color="white" size=".72c">The men always have, the males have the bright colors.</font>

139
00:12:11,900 --> 00:12:16,420
<font color="white" size=".72c">Do you see it coming back now with 
so much freedom. With pop culture</font>

140
00:12:16,420 --> 00:12:20,480
<font color="white" size=".72c">and the performers. Do you see where
men are being more experimental with color</font>

141
00:12:20,480 --> 00:12:23,600
<font color="white" size=".72c">or are they just like performers and not really people.</font>

142
00:12:23,600 --> 00:12:25,520
<font color="white" size=".72c">I wish that that were so.</font>

143
00:12:25,520 --> 00:12:29,900
<font color="white" size=".72c">In fact, the skinny suits, and the boys, and
the young gay boys, and the young straight</font>

144
00:12:29,910 --> 00:12:36,030
<font color="white" size=".72c">metrosexual boys, and I would love all
that. I mean it's wishing, right</font>

145
00:12:36,030 --> 00:12:37,320
<font color="white" size=".72c">But, wishin don't make it so.</font>

146
00:12:37,320 --> 00:12:42,120
<font color="white" size=".72c">I haven't done a job where I can't look
back and look at something you've done.</font>

147
00:12:42,120 --> 00:12:46,110
<font color="white" size=".72c">I remember Annie Get Your Gun was so
influential because I was working at</font>

148
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<font color="white" size=".72c">Matera's at the time and you did all
that wonderful leather, all those chaps.</font>

149
00:12:51,240 --> 00:12:55,460
<font color="white" size=".72c">But they weren't like normal chaps. These
were like the most beautiful chaps.</font>

150
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<font color="white" size=".72c">Sexy Chaps.</font>

151
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<font color="white" size=".72c">But just the craftsmanship.</font>

152
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<font color="white" size=".72c">Willa, oh you know is my hero oh and sort of got me started in the business.</font>

153
00:13:05,120 --> 00:13:11,520
<font color="white" size=".72c">I saw her work on PBS in the early seventies, late sixties early seventies.</font>

154
00:13:11,520 --> 00:13:14,250
<font color="white" size=".72c">And I just thought someone can do that.</font>

155
00:13:14,250 --> 00:13:18,330
<font color="white" size=".72c">That's a job.  We could make a living. You
can do that. I didn't know that that</font>

156
00:13:18,330 --> 00:13:25,260
<font color="white" size=".72c">level of art could be done with and she
had done the sets and the costumes for this ballet.</font>

157
00:13:25,900 --> 00:13:30,400
<font color="white" size=".72c">And it was in Black and White on
television.</font>

158
00:13:30,400 --> 00:13:35,740
<font color="white" size=".72c">What it is is about that one about black,
how do you do black and white and still</font>

159
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<font color="white" size=".72c">keep it dynamic and interesting for the
audience without getting repetitive.</font>

160
00:13:40,120 --> 00:13:44,830
<font color="white" size=".72c">You gave me an amazing an
amazing trick about the skin tones.</font>

161
00:13:44,830 --> 00:13:48,190
<font color="white" size=".72c">How you bring the skin tone.  It's not just Black and White.</font>

162
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<font color="white" size=".72c">You have to bring that because
it has to, somehow you have to soften it in.</font>

163
00:13:52,000 --> 00:13:59,280
<font color="white" size=".72c">Permission and of course, you know who did that so beautifully is Willa.</font>

164
00:13:59,640 --> 00:14:03,420
<font color="white" size=".72c">She always painted skin tones into the
leotards.</font>

165
00:14:03,430 --> 00:14:07,900
<font color="white" size=".72c">Yes and so you didn't know where the
color was coming.</font>

166
00:14:07,900 --> 00:14:11,740
<font color="white" size=".72c">She wanted them to be basically naked yeah well who doesn't?</font>

167
00:14:11,740 --> 00:14:17,380
<font color="white" size=".72c">but uh and so she discovered that
was the key with Sally Ann Parsons.</font>

168
00:14:17,380 --> 00:14:21,220
<font color="white" size=".72c">So we're gonna go see Willa. Oh cool.  
Hopefully she'll have...</font>

169
00:14:21,220 --> 00:14:24,640
<font color="white" size=".72c">I don't know whether she has sketches. You know, she's also right at the edge of tomorrow.</font>

170
00:14:24,640 --> 00:14:25,980
<font color="white" size=".72c">Cutting edge.</font>

171
00:14:25,980 --> 00:14:27,320
<font color="white" size=".72c">You're my hero.</font>

172
00:14:27,320 --> 00:14:29,100
<font color="white" size=".72c">You're my hero.</font>

173
00:14:29,100 --> 00:14:31,100
<font color="white" size=".72c">Thank you for today.</font>

174
00:14:31,720 --> 00:14:36,060
<font color="white" size=".72c">I've been wearing this outfit for decades.</font>

175
00:14:36,120 --> 00:14:42,400
<font color="white" size=".72c">White shirt, stripe tie, navy blazer, khaki pants, black shoes. Now there have been variations</font>

176
00:14:42,400 --> 00:14:47,650
<font color="white" size=".72c">for some reason, deeply psychological
things, I have forgotten, but a wee</font>

177
00:14:47,650 --> 00:14:50,440
<font color="white" size=".72c">period during the seventies I were blue
jeans.</font>

178
00:14:50,440 --> 00:14:51,980
<font color="white" size=".72c">Whoo-hoo what was I thinking.</font>

179
00:14:52,140 --> 00:14:57,060
<font color="white" size=".72c">The worst thing a costume designer can wear are interesting clothes.</font>

180
00:14:57,120 --> 00:15:02,980
<font color="white" size=".72c">Nothing destroys confidence like
cleverly inventive clothes worn by</font>

181
00:15:02,980 --> 00:15:08,590
<font color="white" size=".72c">your costume or wardrobe person because
it means you are spending time thinking</font>

182
00:15:08,590 --> 00:15:09,910
<font color="white" size=".72c">about yourself.</font>

183
00:15:09,910 --> 00:15:16,080
<font color="white" size=".72c">You need to save all of your energy and
design essence for the work.</font>

184
00:15:16,080 --> 00:15:24,540
<font color="white" size=".72c">I have Kander and Ebbs Chicago running now in its18-year. Sometimes the fabrics are no</font>

185
00:15:24,550 --> 00:15:28,780
<font color="white" size=".72c">longer available so I have to choose
other fabrics and actually I love this.</font>

186
00:15:28,780 --> 00:15:33,040
<font color="white" size=".72c">I mean what a wonderful problem to have.
Oh the costumes are falling apart</font>

187
00:15:33,960 --> 00:15:40,740
<font color="white" size=".72c">You hope the shows run forever and, but when they don't, I try very hard to get the</font>

188
00:15:40,900 --> 00:15:42,920
<font color="white" size=".72c">producers to give them to me.</font>

189
00:15:42,920 --> 00:15:46,790
<font color="white" size=".72c">Gosh I'm going to fabric stores and I
find fabrics that I should have used in</font>

190
00:15:46,790 --> 00:15:50,600
<font color="white" size=".72c">a play that ended two years ago and I buy it.</font>

191
00:15:50,600 --> 00:15:54,780
<font color="white" size=".72c">I buy the fabric. I have bins of fabric of
shoulda woulda coulda bins.</font>

192
00:15:55,000 --> 00:15:59,920
<font color="white" size=".72c">That sit up there. And sometimes I reuse
them. But usually I just collect them.</font>

193
00:15:59,920 --> 00:16:06,640
<font color="white" size=".72c">Because for m  e it's completing a process
and I owe it to the memory of that production.</font>

194
00:16:06,640 --> 00:16:11,080
<font color="white" size=".72c">It's sort of crazy but I could be on a guest episode of hoarders.</font>

195
00:16:11,080 --> 00:16:16,600
<font color="white" size=".72c">This is my concept board for Cinderella.
I always at the end of one show I have</font>

196
00:16:16,600 --> 00:16:22,420
<font color="white" size=".72c">one board that is just for that show and
has the essence of that show.</font>

197
00:16:22,430 --> 00:16:25,160
<font color="white" size=".72c">And I'd leave it on it especially if it's still running.</font>

198
00:16:25,160 --> 00:16:29,510
<font color="white" size=".72c">I was trying to figure out I wanted,
during the ball scene, the ballroom scene</font>

199
00:16:29,510 --> 00:16:33,410
<font color="white" size=".72c">you know, it's very aspirational who
doesn't want to marry a prince and I was</font>

200
00:16:33,410 --> 00:16:42,620
<font color="white" size=".72c">trying to show my costume houses that I
wanted to see through these dresses like this.</font>

201
00:16:42,620 --> 00:16:46,680
<font color="white" size=".72c">And I couldn't. I was trying to
invent something so I made this little doll.</font>

202
00:16:46,880 --> 00:16:50,860
<font color="white" size=".72c">And you know what it worked because I
was able to take a look the little doll and</font>

203
00:16:50,860 --> 00:16:55,459
<font color="white" size=".72c">of course everyone laughed very indulgently at me and they said William and his dolls...</font>

204
00:16:55,459 --> 00:16:56,630
<font color="white" size=".72c">But, here we go.</font>

205
00:16:56,630 --> 00:16:59,140
<font color="white" size=".72c">And so all the ball gowns are like this.</font>

206
00:17:00,740 --> 00:17:02,900
<font color="white" size=".72c">Bullets Over Broadway is a backstage</font>

207
00:17:02,920 --> 00:17:07,540
<font color="white" size=".72c">musical and the story is basically no
one wants to give any money except for</font>

208
00:17:07,550 --> 00:17:11,720
<font color="white" size=".72c">the gangster who said i'll give you
money for your show but my girlfriend</font>

209
00:17:11,720 --> 00:17:13,579
<font color="white" size=".72c">has to have a big role in it.</font>

210
00:17:13,579 --> 00:17:19,160
<font color="white" size=".72c">That's old story, in fact it still happens
today. in fact it's one of my shows right now.</font>

211
00:17:19,160 --> 00:17:26,150
<font color="white" size=".72c">Anyway because we're overexposed to
gangsters at the moment I just some</font>

212
00:17:26,150 --> 00:17:30,040
<font color="white" size=".72c">trying to very hard to make my take on it different.</font>

213
00:17:30,860 --> 00:17:34,320
<font color="white" size=".72c">I've lined them up like this because
these are all the gangsters.</font>

214
00:17:34,320 --> 00:17:40,970
<font color="white" size=".72c">Here's the set and all this color is
this is based on this art deco door.</font>

215
00:17:40,970 --> 00:17:43,760
<font color="white" size=".72c">I like turning it upside down because then
you're not reading it.</font>

216
00:17:43,760 --> 00:17:44,940
<font color="white" size=".72c">So the interesting thing to do,</font>

217
00:17:44,940 --> 00:17:50,100
<font color="white" size=".72c">which is very exciting for me, is to try
to keep that color, very strict color scheme</font>

218
00:17:50,100 --> 00:17:54,780
<font color="white" size=".72c">so you've got like all these gangsters on stage, but you want them all</font>

219
00:17:54,780 --> 00:17:58,650
<font color="white" size=".72c">to be tied together in front of this.
Well there aren't enough colors in this.</font>

220
00:17:58,650 --> 00:18:05,430
<font color="white" size=".72c">And then I found this wonderful
Bug picture 1925, which actually has</font>

221
00:18:05,430 --> 00:18:07,680
<font color="white" size=".72c">little bits green little bits of blue.</font>

222
00:18:07,680 --> 00:18:12,060
<font color="white" size=".72c">That's sort of a peach but anyway that's
that's the job that's the assignment.</font>

223
00:18:12,060 --> 00:18:17,550
<font color="white" size=".72c">Because unlike a film we see all these
people on stage head to toe.</font>

224
00:18:17,550 --> 00:18:22,590
<font color="white" size=".72c">I have to help the audience know where
to look. In fact often on stage,</font>

225
00:18:22,590 --> 00:18:27,510
<font color="white" size=".72c">I have the leading ladies understudy standing next to her.</font>

226
00:18:27,510 --> 00:18:32,490
<font color="white" size=".72c">Well guess what? I've got to, I often tell her, I said darling I'm so terribly</font>

227
00:18:32,490 --> 00:18:35,340
<font color="white" size=".72c">sorry I have a bear you under a bushel.</font>

228
00:18:45,300 --> 00:18:50,860
<font color="white" size=".72c">I still wake up in the morning so
excited about what I'm doing.</font>

229
00:18:51,560 --> 00:18:56,140
<font color="white" size=".72c">My favorite centerpiece of my life is in the fitting room.</font>

230
00:18:58,820 --> 00:19:06,440
<font color="white" size=".72c">I'm often aware of the fact the body
language and fitting. I  can always tell that aha moment.</font>

231
00:19:06,600 --> 00:19:10,780
<font color="white" size=".72c">It's very exciting because then they can
see themselves being transformed.</font>

232
00:19:11,310 --> 00:19:14,490
<font color="white" size=".72c">I often start with vintage underwear.</font>

233
00:19:14,490 --> 00:19:18,030
<font color="white" size=".72c">Even though no one will see. It's like
the inside of a pocket books.</font>

234
00:19:18,030 --> 00:19:24,840
<font color="white" size=".72c">I always fill pocketbooks with compacts and period lipstick and period handkerchiefs that helped</font>

235
00:19:24,840 --> 00:19:27,840
<font color="white" size=".72c">someone realized this is where I am this
is what I'm doing.</font>

236
00:19:37,910 --> 00:19:42,470
<font color="white" size=".72c">I was, I think I was, six maybe I was
five or four, but I had this wonderful</font>

237
00:19:42,470 --> 00:19:47,930
<font color="white" size=".72c">dog named Manteo and she would follow me everywhere, you know, move when I moved</font>

238
00:19:47,930 --> 00:19:52,940
<font color="white" size=".72c">and sit when I sat. I got a needle and
thread and I had the end of a pillowcase.</font>

239
00:19:52,940 --> 00:19:58,700
<font color="white" size=".72c">that was already hemmed.  And I
remember taking, I remember this</font>

240
00:19:58,700 --> 00:20:01,660
<font color="white" size=".72c">taking the needle and thread and going
in and out all the way around.</font>

241
00:20:01,660 --> 00:20:05,480
<font color="white" size=".72c">I think I ran out of thread or something I
remember and I thought oh I have to get</font>

242
00:20:05,480 --> 00:20:12,320
<font color="white" size=".72c">around there and I pulled it and I
invented pleating and I put it on my dog</font>

243
00:20:12,320 --> 00:20:17,570
<font color="white" size=".72c">and I tightened it more and it was a
rough a ruffled collar for my dog.</font>

244
00:20:17,570 --> 00:20:22,040
<font color="white" size=".72c">I invented it. That was my first my first costume.</font>

245
00:20:41,560 --> 00:20:42,920
<font color="white" size=".72c">I love the news.</font>

246
00:20:45,940 --> 00:20:50,470
<font color="white" size=".72c">JPMorgan's legal hurdles expected to multiply.</font>

247
00:20:50,470 --> 00:20:53,470
<font color="white" size=".72c">Well that's all they need.</font>

248
00:20:53,470 --> 00:20:56,530
<font color="white" size=".72c">Speedy trains transform China.</font>

249
00:20:57,220 --> 00:21:04,560
<font color="white" size=".72c">Well I would think so.  Blackberry buyout
offer raises questions.</font>

250
00:21:04,920 --> 00:21:08,620
<font color="white" size=".72c">Army of questions. I can't believe this.</font>

251
00:21:08,620 --> 00:21:13,500
<font color="white" size=".72c">I should try to clean this thing up. It's just awful.</font>

252
00:21:14,760 --> 00:21:19,720
<font color="white" size=".72c">And here it... hang on.</font>

253
00:21:20,700 --> 00:21:22,980
<font color="white" size=".72c">and Julie Andrews.</font>

254
00:21:26,940 --> 00:21:33,700
<font color="white" size=".72c">I designed her costumes for her in one
of the shows that she was, I guess the last one she did.</font>

255
00:21:36,840 --> 00:21:42,700
<font color="white" size=".72c">what's so funny is that I brought around a lot of stuff and she picked what she liked.</font>

256
00:21:44,520 --> 00:21:47,400
<font color="white" size=".72c">When it was all over she
asked me what happened to the rest of</font>

257
00:21:47,400 --> 00:21:49,000
<font color="white" size=".72c">them she wanted to keep them.</font>

258
00:21:49,940 --> 00:21:51,940
<font color="white" size=".72c">[doorbell rings]</font>

259
00:22:07,020 --> 00:22:10,020
<font color="white" size=".72c">William. I knew it was you.</font>

260
00:22:11,560 --> 00:22:13,020
<font color="white" size=".72c">Oh you're dressed.</font>

261
00:22:14,940 --> 00:22:18,580
<font color="white" size=".72c">I was just going to change.</font>

262
00:22:18,580 --> 00:22:20,580
<font color="white" size=".72c">Well don't change. Never change.</font>

263
00:22:24,180 --> 00:22:27,690
<font color="white" size=".72c">I haven't been here in a while.</font>

264
00:22:27,690 --> 00:22:33,090
<font color="white" size=".72c">Uh-huh you remember? I remember
everything that, it's crazy.</font>

265
00:22:33,090 --> 00:22:40,340
<font color="white" size=".72c">It's when the Emperor, who is on his deathbed, and about to die and Rusenyow sings</font>

266
00:22:40,340 --> 00:22:44,260
<font color="white" size=".72c">and then he wakes up. So he doesn't die.</font>

267
00:22:44,260 --> 00:22:49,590
<font color="white" size=".72c">And it's in color but when I saw it when I saw it on PBS</font>

268
00:22:49,590 --> 00:22:51,960
<font color="white" size=".72c">broadcast it was in black and white.</font>

269
00:22:51,960 --> 00:22:56,910
<font color="white" size=".72c">Watching that made me want to become a
designer. I was in Art history</font>

270
00:22:56,910 --> 00:22:58,840
<font color="white" size=".72c">I was gonna write ...</font>

271
00:22:58,840 --> 00:23:01,660
<font color="white" size=".72c">I know I know about you, you're an intellectual.</font>

272
00:23:01,760 --> 00:23:06,940
<font color="white" size=".72c">Well, I want to be everything.</font>

273
00:23:07,040 --> 00:23:10,940
<font color="white" size=".72c">Later, because I didn't have a playbill. I found out that you had</font>

274
00:23:10,950 --> 00:23:14,430
<font color="white" size=".72c">designed the scenery, and costumes, and props.</font>

275
00:23:14,430 --> 00:23:18,870
<font color="white" size=".72c">So you're the exact reason I wanted to
do this for a living.</font>

276
00:23:18,870 --> 00:23:22,000
<font color="white" size=".72c">This crazy thing we do. Oh so there it's
your fault.</font>

277
00:23:22,000 --> 00:23:24,000
<font color="white" size=".72c">It's my fault.</font>

278
00:23:25,830 --> 00:23:27,480
<font color="white" size=".72c">That's the best thing I've done.</font>

279
00:23:27,480 --> 00:23:35,130
<font color="white" size=".72c">oh haha William you're such an addition
to our trade our craft of whatever it is we do.</font>

280
00:23:35,130 --> 00:23:36,540
<font color="white" size=".72c">It's a trade.</font>

281
00:23:37,760 --> 00:23:40,040
<font color="white" size=".72c">Really it's an art.  It's an art form.</font>

282
00:23:41,070 --> 00:23:44,760
<font color="white" size=".72c">I always wanted to be an artist so don't...</font>

283
00:23:44,760 --> 00:23:47,360
<font color="white" size=".72c">Don't tell me I'm a tradesperson.</font>

284
00:23:47,360 --> 00:23:50,520
<font color="white" size=".72c">You know? I never studied design.</font>

285
00:23:50,520 --> 00:23:51,380
<font color="white" size=".72c">No?</font>

286
00:23:51,800 --> 00:23:54,320
<font color="white" size=".72c">No. I didn't know it existed.</font>

287
00:23:54,320 --> 00:24:01,280
<font color="white" size=".72c">I was an artist. I was going to
be an artist. And I got a job without a portfolio</font>

288
00:24:01,280 --> 00:24:06,940
<font color="white" size=".72c">at The May company in LA and within two weeks of doing their full page ads.</font>

289
00:24:06,940 --> 00:24:12,000
<font color="white" size=".72c">I was just... a mad success, you know?</font>

290
00:24:12,000 --> 00:24:14,300
<font color="white" size=".72c">And making all this money.</font>

291
00:24:14,300 --> 00:24:18,620
<font color="white" size=".72c">Well I thought it was a lot of money. I
think it was forty five dollars a week.</font>

292
00:24:18,700 --> 00:24:25,720
<font color="white" size=".72c">And then Paramount called. Paramount offered me 75 dollars a week.</font>

293
00:24:25,720 --> 00:24:29,780
<font color="white" size=".72c">And I said no I'm happy. I'm doing what I want to do/</font>

294
00:24:29,780 --> 00:24:35,540
<font color="white" size=".72c">And then I was telling this man sitting behind me at The May company and he said,</font>

295
00:24:35,540 --> 00:24:40,100
<font color="white" size=".72c">you have to take it because not many designers get that offer.</font>

296
00:24:40,180 --> 00:24:44,380
<font color="white" size=".72c">So I went and then I thought what am I
doing here?</font>

297
00:24:44,380 --> 00:24:49,820
<font color="white" size=".72c">You know? This isn't what I wanna do. 
I'm hanging around sound stages doing nothing.</font>

298
00:24:49,820 --> 00:24:54,350
<font color="white" size=".72c">And it's all a big factory and I'm unhappy.</font>

299
00:24:54,350 --> 00:25:01,370
<font color="white" size=".72c">So this woman, this stately woman walked
by me and she saw me loitering because</font>

300
00:25:01,370 --> 00:25:06,320
<font color="white" size=".72c">I didn't know what I was doing there. I 
was just hanging around Paramount.</font>

301
00:25:06,320 --> 00:25:11,380
<font color="white" size=".72c">And she asked me to do some
color samples for her for these sketches.</font>

302
00:25:11,390 --> 00:25:19,700
<font color="white" size=".72c">And it was Karinska. Then she wanted to find out and said</font>

303
00:25:19,700 --> 00:25:21,380
<font color="white" size=".72c">I want that girl to be my assistant.</font>

304
00:25:21,380 --> 00:25:27,260
<font color="white" size=".72c">When I realized who she was. It wasn't
just meeting designers.</font>

305
00:25:27,260 --> 00:25:32,510
<font color="white" size=".72c">You know meeting designers, Hollywood designers is not that great, at least done as an artist.</font>

306
00:25:32,510 --> 00:25:40,140
<font color="white" size=".72c">You think of them as a tradespeople or something.</font>

307
00:25:42,820 --> 00:25:47,440
<font color="white" size=".72c">Through her I met all these wonderful artists that she knew.</font>

308
00:25:47,440 --> 00:25:51,240
<font color="white" size=".72c">Who were some of the artists you met through Karinska then?</font>

309
00:25:51,900 --> 00:25:54,260
<font color="white" size=".72c">Well, Raoul Pène du Bois.</font>

310
00:25:54,260 --> 00:25:55,960
<font color="white" size=".72c">He brought her to Paramount.</font>

311
00:25:55,960 --> 00:26:00,160
<font color="white" size=".72c">To do his movie Lady in the Dark. Frenchman's creek.</font>

312
00:26:00,160 --> 00:26:06,280
<font color="white" size=".72c">So I go visit him at MGM and wait for him and he'd be busy or something.</font>

313
00:26:07,780 --> 00:26:11,420
<font color="white" size=".72c">And then he'd come up and
he said to me, you know who you are</font>

314
00:26:11,420 --> 00:26:16,100
<font color="white" size=".72c">sitting next to? And I said, no.  He said Marlene</font>

315
00:26:16,100 --> 00:26:21,110
<font color="white" size=".72c">I said I'm sitting next to Dietrich? The
whole time I didn't even look at her.</font>

316
00:26:21,110 --> 00:26:23,660
<font color="white" size=".72c">I didn't look at her.  I didn't recognize
her.</font>

317
00:26:23,660 --> 00:26:29,200
<font color="white" size=".72c">So funny. There's Balanchine. I'm sitting
right next to him.</font>

318
00:26:31,900 --> 00:26:32,900
<font color="white" size=".72c">And which is Raoul?</font>

319
00:26:32,900 --> 00:26:37,080
<font color="white" size=".72c">This one back here right next to
Karinska.</font>

320
00:26:37,600 --> 00:26:41,340
<font color="white" size=".72c">That's Raoul's boyfriend.</font>

321
00:26:41,340 --> 00:26:44,820
<font color="white" size=".72c">I tell you isn't an extraordinary education .</font>

322
00:26:44,880 --> 00:26:51,780
<font color="white" size=".72c">I wanted to be a designer. I couldn't pick the two most important people in costumes and sets</font>

323
00:26:51,780 --> 00:26:55,540
<font color="white" size=".72c">than Karinska and Raoul Pène du Bois.</font>

324
00:26:55,540 --> 00:26:57,350
<font color="white" size=".72c">and where does Balanchine fit into this?</font>

325
00:26:57,350 --> 00:27:01,240
<font color="white" size=".72c">Well he was married to an actress.</font>

326
00:27:01,760 --> 00:27:05,400
<font color="white" size=".72c">So he was a Stage-door Johnny or was he
choreographing the movie?</font>

327
00:27:05,960 --> 00:27:11,360
<font color="white" size=".72c">He was a Stage-door Johnny.   He had an eye for girls.</font>

328
00:27:17,120 --> 00:27:19,680
<font color="white" size=".72c">These are the ballets that I did.</font>

329
00:27:21,200 --> 00:27:22,980
<font color="white" size=".72c">You know who he is?</font>

330
00:27:24,760 --> 00:27:29,800
<font color="white" size=".72c">Baryshnikov. He was the most
beautiful dancer.</font>

331
00:27:45,880 --> 00:27:48,900
<font color="white" size=".72c">It's fun to look at all these paints.</font>

332
00:27:48,900 --> 00:27:50,900
<font color="white" size=".72c">I've never seen you do this.</font>

333
00:27:54,520 --> 00:27:57,020
<font color="white" size=".72c">Oh look on the other side this is a ballet.</font>

334
00:27:57,020 --> 00:27:59,660
<font color="white" size=".72c">This is the bottom of a tutu.</font>

335
00:28:16,610 --> 00:28:20,330
<font color="white" size=".72c">You're involved in dance from the very
beginning.</font>

336
00:28:21,080 --> 00:28:25,070
<font color="white" size=".72c">You see the choreographer talks about an
idea.</font>

337
00:28:25,070 --> 00:28:30,820
<font color="white" size=".72c">Then he or she is working on
expressing that idea in movement.</font>

338
00:28:30,820 --> 00:28:40,360
<font color="white" size=".72c">And you're involved from that moment on and trying to create the idea in through dance.</font>

339
00:28:40,360 --> 00:28:46,500
<font color="white" size=".72c">And so I think your involvement is deeper,</font>

340
00:28:46,500 --> 00:28:55,320
<font color="white" size=".72c">Plays of course, it can do that too, but they're pretty much, well so is dance,</font>

341
00:28:55,320 --> 00:29:00,860
<font color="white" size=".72c">done for an audience. But, you're not aware of that as much.</font>

342
00:29:01,740 --> 00:29:05,980
<font color="white" size=".72c">You're involved with the idea of what the dance is about.</font>

343
00:29:08,800 --> 00:29:16,060
<font color="white" size=".72c">I remember doing a play and having a
fitting with two women.</font>

344
00:29:17,320 --> 00:29:25,780
<font color="white" size=".72c">And they had been talking about me and how little I, you know, she knows and they were really</font>

345
00:29:25,790 --> 00:29:31,669
<font color="white" size=".72c">terribly superior and and, oh god what am I gonna do?</font>

346
00:29:31,669 --> 00:29:38,990
<font color="white" size=".72c">So I went in and a friend of mine came
up at the fitting and she said,</font>

347
00:29:38,990 --> 00:29:45,770
<font color="white" size=".72c">Oh did you read what Jonathan Miller wrote
about you in the New York Times.</font>

348
00:29:45,770 --> 00:29:51,440
<font color="white" size=".72c">And I said no I haven't had a chance to. So I
found it. It was a wonderful article.</font>

349
00:29:51,440 --> 00:29:56,330
<font color="white" size=".72c">And those two bitches who were in the play,</font>

350
00:29:56,990 --> 00:30:02,510
<font color="white" size=".72c">naturally saw it because he was their
director as well as mine.</font>

351
00:30:02,510 --> 00:30:07,780
<font color="white" size=".72c">And so I didn't have to defend
myself at all.</font>

352
00:30:08,440 --> 00:30:09,640
<font color="white" size=".72c">It was there in print.</font>

353
00:30:16,440 --> 00:30:24,039
<font color="white" size=".72c">It's always that early in your life you
remember those things because you're so</font>

354
00:30:24,039 --> 00:30:31,509
<font color="white" size=".72c">raw and emotional about what you're
doing because you're so vulnerable when</font>

355
00:30:31,509 --> 00:30:35,080
<font color="white" size=".72c">you're a young designer. You know....</font>

356
00:30:35,080 --> 00:30:44,230
<font color="white" size=".72c">You're so lucky to get the job and then
not to shortchange the director,</font>

357
00:30:44,230 --> 00:30:49,700
<font color="white" size=".72c">or whoever is terrible, you just,
you never get over that.</font>

358
00:30:49,920 --> 00:30:54,220
<font color="white" size=".72c">They have to go through it and harden themselves.</font>

359
00:30:54,220 --> 00:30:59,109
<font color="white" size=".72c">It prepares you for your next
director your next show.</font>

360
00:30:59,109 --> 00:31:05,980
<font color="white" size=".72c">And it toughens you but also you learn
from these things.</font>

361
00:31:19,180 --> 00:31:21,820
<font color="white" size=".72c">I always say three things.</font>

362
00:31:21,820 --> 00:31:24,840
<font color="white" size=".72c">When you're starting out, you're a puppy dog.</font>

363
00:31:25,180 --> 00:31:29,120
<font color="white" size=".72c">a golden retriever; You are
licking with your tongue.</font>

364
00:31:29,120 --> 00:31:31,200
<font color="white" size=".72c">You're so excited you're jumping up knocking people over.</font>

365
00:31:31,200 --> 00:31:33,600
<font color="white" size=".72c">Then the second moment in life:</font>

366
00:31:33,600 --> 00:31:36,740
<font color="white" size=".72c">Shakespeare had seven ages of man. I have three.</font>

367
00:31:36,740 --> 00:31:43,940
<font color="white" size=".72c">The second one is knowledge. You learn.
You understand. You have knowledge.</font>

368
00:31:43,940 --> 00:31:48,000
<font color="white" size=".72c">You make discerning choices and you're a
professional.</font>

369
00:31:48,000 --> 00:31:50,680
<font color="white" size=".72c">The third and final stage</font>

370
00:31:50,680 --> 00:31:59,630
<font color="white" size=".72c">is wisdom and wisdom has the effect of
you sit in you're comfortable chair,</font>

371
00:31:59,630 --> 00:32:04,760
<font color="white" size=".72c">you have your single malt scotch right
at your hand, and you go you know maybe</font>

372
00:32:04,760 --> 00:32:06,350
<font color="white" size=".72c">we just don't do that.</font>

373
00:32:06,350 --> 00:32:10,340
<font color="white" size=".72c">I just hope wisdom doesn't take over.</font>

374
00:32:22,140 --> 00:32:24,140
<font color="white" size=".72c">[End Credits]</font>